Fustanella or tailcoat?

Item

Title

Fashion

Date

19 March–31 December 2021

Date Issued

2021

Abstract

Starting from the fustanella of the 1821 fighters, both the version worn in King Otto’s era and that worn by the Evzones, the exhibition unit “Fustanella or tailcoat?” gives quick responses to issues surrounding the transformations and the different uses of the fustanella through the passage of time, focusing primarily on the disputes that arose around it a little before and after it was established as the official “national costume”. At the same time, prompted by artistic creations inspired by the fustanella – such as the costumes of the Chorus members in Bost’s Medea (2019) – but also by various versions of it that have, at times, been introduced as “fashion”– like Mick Jagger’s variation (1969) – the episode focuses on subversive and hybrid ensembles, which nevertheless manage to identify with sartorial stereotypes of “Greekness”. The unit is accompanied by a video by Mary Thivaiou titled “φου (fu) fighters”. The artist focuses on indicative contemporary sartorial ensembles that draw their inspiration from the fustanella, in some cases creating something that matches the style of clothing of a pallikar”. Other times, however, they deviate from the lines of what is “acceptable” and disconnect from structured rules, provoking new or deepening existing identity crises and the way they are “fashioned” through dress.

(Edited version of Tania Veliskou’s description of the exhibition from the organiser’s website)